The Great Pyramid of Cholula

Nuestra Señora de los Remedios Church seen from below

Appearances can be deceitful. When you are driving “la recta,” a straight road connecting the city of Puebla to the magic town of Cholula, a lemon colored church, standing over a mountain covered with lush foliage, starts to dominate the landscape. The tiled domes of the structure contrast perfectly with the snow capped crater of [...]

Eating Sushi in Oaxaca: Not a Good Idea

Confetti roll

I have done the same mistake before and I am not sure why I keep making it. The last day in Thailand, after two weeks eating curries and pad thais, which by the way were delicious, we felt a little bit homesick.  At the airport, we decided to order a pair of juicy, tender, “American [...]

Mezcal: For Every Bad or Good

Agave Plants

Since I met Antonio, I knew I was in the right hands. His authoritarian tone contrasted with his thin frame. We couldn’t stop giggling after the words he used to reprimand part of the group for not following instructions. Instead of a stylish uniform, he was wearing faded jeans, white sneakers and a wide-brimmed hat. [...]

Teotitlan del Valle: Surrounded by Rugs and Textiles

Colorful rug patterns

Using a spinning wheel, with a small touch of magic, the weaver created thread after combing the raw Merino wool. “This one has clumps because I combed it without care for the demonstration.  Usually, the thread we produce here is smooth and even.” My jaw dropped fast and even a “wow” came out of my [...]

Santo Domingo Cultural Center, Oaxaca

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  In Oaxaca’s historic center, there is a museum dedicated to encapsulate the cultures of the huge state under one roof.  Whoooaaaaaa. Tough task. The state is composed of 8 distinctive zones and has more than 2,000 years of history.  Three quarters of the municipalities are governed by a customs and traditions administration.  There are [...]

Guadalupe Fort: Location of the Battle of Puebla

The city of Puebla seen from the hill where the fort is located

Do you know what is celebrated the “cinco de mayo” (May 5th)? Time to think… Brownie points if you answered the Battle of Puebla (hopefully, you didn’t answer “Mexico’s Independence Day”).  That date is observed as a celebration of heritage, pride, freedom and democracy in the United States and some parts of Mexico.  Others use [...]

Mercado Juarez’s Dangerous Flavors, Textures and Aromas

Baskets for sale at the Mercado Benito Juarez, Oaxaca, Mexico

My visit to the Benito Juarez market started in a dangerous way. Squeezing through the diminutive alleys, lit by dim light bulbs and clogged with a multitude of shoppers, bear the risk of breaking something or being patted down TSA style.  Moreover, the alleys were blocked with dry Jamaica flowers, clay jars and flower pots.  [...]

San Bartolo Coyotepec: Where the Black Clay Shines

Black clay figures

When we think about utensils or figures made with clay, shades of brown, terracotta or sepia come to mind. Nevertheless, in the Oaxacan town of San Bartolo Coyotepec, potters create black, shiny pieces without the necessity of paint or lacquer.  And when I say shiny, I am referring to a luster comparable to the surface [...]

Monte Alban: The First Great City of Mesoamerica

On the top of the northen platform

When we think about great Mesoamerican civilizations, we usually think about the great monuments and scientific achievements of people like the Mayas or Aztecs. However, there is a city whose power lasted more than a thousand years.  Its builders flatten the top of a mountain to construct it.  Governors, priests, architects, artisans and other powerful [...]

In Love With Oaxaca

Colorful streeting in colonial center

Imagine a place where there is not just one but two huge main plazas full of people, balloon vendors, food carts and performers.  The town cathedral is the tall witness of all the activity taking place beneath its façade.  One of the plazas is surrounded by porticos full of restaurants serving regional food. Not only [...]

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