I am back from a 17 days trip to Spain. That is why I have been really quiet during the past weeks. The good thing is that I have tons of stories to share now. Thanks for your patience!
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I knew I was going to like Spain but I was not expecting to be blown away only a few hours after landing in Madrid.
Since we were staying in the Centro, we started our exploration of the city around this neighborhood. After checking out Plaza Sol and the Plaza Mayor, we stumbled upon the Mercado San Miguel.
This particular place was on my “do not miss” list. The place was packed when we arrived since, without knowing it, we arrived in Madrid during a holiday weekend.
Well, we weren’t deterred by the amount of people and ended up entering. It didn’t take long to be enchanted by the hanging ham legs, the fresh seafood, the colorful tapas and the mouth watering pastries. Plus, everybody was having a blast. We had to join in one way or another.
This is the only iron market that has survived till these days. It started as an open air market but coverage was commissioned in 1911 and finished in 1916.
Nowadays, it is full of entrepreneurs aiming to provide only the finest offerings to the public.
Here are some reasons why this place holds a quite large place in our hearts.
Carrasco Guijuelo
This stall is run by a family that had been in the Iberic ham business for more than 120 years. Expect to get high quality hams, sausages and cold meats from them. They sell bellota Iberic ham (where the pigs are feed only acorns) by the kilo (in a paper cone). In addition, they sell a wide assortment of bocadillos (sandwiches made with crusty bread, ham and other cold meats).
La Casa del Bacalao (Codfish House)
You cannot imagine how exhilarated I was about this. In Puerto Rico (and in other places in the Caribbean), codfish plays a big role on the cuisine. I have not tried a proper codfish dish in years. In this stall, they serve stewed codfish, pickled herring, smoked salmon, octopus, bonito (tuna) and other seafood over a toasted piece of bread. Each little tapa costs only one Euro. We ate here every time we visited the Mercado. My favorite tapa was the cod topped with honey. My husband preferred the herring with dill mustard.
La Hora del Vermut
This business specializes in vermut (or vermouth, a fortified wine flavored with various botanicals). This type of wine is very popular in Spain and people tend to drink it in a social environment.
But, to be honest, that is not the reason why this place impressed me. They also own an olive stall in the market. Now, this is not your typical stall where different variations of olives are sold by the kilo. In here, they combine the olives with tons of other ingredients. There are so many variations that you cannot keep count of all they have.
They prepare little skewers (banderillas) of olives with ham, cheese, octopus, sundried tomatoes, cocktails onions, red peppers, chilies, anchovies, quail eggs and more. In addition, you can get stuffed artichoke hearts, dates filled with blue cheese and olives marinated in different sauces.
Looks like La Hora del Vermut also owns the dried fruits and nuts stall in the market.
Galician Seafood
I can’t believe I forgot the name of my favorite stall in the market! All I know is that this place has a huge array of seafood and shells brought to the capital from the Cantabrian Sea. The signs hanging over the fridges full of colorful delicacies said everything was prepared Galician style.
This is another place we hit every time we stopped by the market. We tried to taste something different (or new) during each visit.
We had the boquerones (white anchovies in vinegar and oil).
… and the razor clams
… and Pulpo Gallego (Galician style octopus)
Oh! And how to miss the Gambas al Ajillo (Garlic Shimp). All was a pure delight!
Ostras Daniel Sorlut
This business specializes in high quality oysters. They also serve caviar and champagne.
El Senor Martin
This is another surprising stall (at least for me). The variety of crustaceans and fish is outstanding. In here, I saw things I have never seen before: carabineros (big prawns with red shells), cigalas (Dublin Bay or Norway prawns), rape (monkfish), percebes (barnacles) and others. In addition, they have available fresh octopus, sea urchin, tuna and razor clams.
If you want to taste something , they serve fried boquerones, squid rings, squid legs or prawns in a cone.
Mya Valdalos
This is the cheese stall of the market. It offers the visitor national and international cheeses from big and artisan producers. Pick something from the different tapas available or create your own cheese plate. We asked the lady attending the stall to select for us a plate consisting of Spanish cheeses. You can ask for the same, chose cheeses from another country or mix cheeses from different countries.
Que Bonito es Panama
This big business with ample counter space serves all sorts of drinks and cold tapas. We were attracted to it because of the hot plates that are prepared at the moment. We ordered the grilled sepia (cuttlefish) and we cannot stop dreaming about the dish. It was perfect because of its simplicity!
MozHeart
To me, this was one of the most creative stalls in the Mercado. All their tapas are made with burrata, ricotta or mozzarella. They use milk from Spanish cows to create their products.
Alevin Cocina Creativa
This stall specializes in gulas, which for what I have read, are an imitation of angulas (baby eels). Turns out real angulas can be really expensive. That is why certain business recreate the product using white fish and the surimi technique (same technique used to obtain imitation crab).
The gulas are seasoned with salt, pepper, garlic or olive oil and served over bread or on a plate.
Horno San Onofre
This bakery is a sweet’s lover paradise. It is impossible to describe everything they offer but I will say they have a big selection of cookies, tarts, meringues, pastries, macarons, éclairs and traditional Spanish sweets. Honestly, I wouldn’t leave the Mercado without trying something from here!
Café del Art
This is the coffee shop of the market. They serve traditional drinks as well as innovative coffee related products. In the stall, you can also find pastries and the famous pasteis de nata.
La Flor de San Miguel
Here you can find fresh produce. Look out for the exotic fruits, juices and cup filled with fruit pieces.
Carro de Caviar
This little cart serves caviar or fish roe over bread (tapas style) or blinis.
Llardy
This stall is a spin off a restaurant with a history of over 170 years (one of the oldest in Madrid). In here, you will find dishes native to Madrid and other places in Spain. Their selection is wide and varied. Therefore, it presents a good opportunity to taste Spain in one place.
The Sherry Corner
Offer an opportunity to taste different types of sherry. They served the tastings on a tray (easy to move around the market).
Uvepan
This establishment offers a selection or gourmet ingredients and ready-to-eat offerings.
In here you can find, pastas, truffles, capers, pancetta, oil, spices and parmesan cheese. If you are hungry, you can select between pizza, turnovers, bocadillos or soup. They can heat your selection if you want.
Details
- The Mercado San Miguel is located at the Plaza San Miguel (next to the Plaza Mayor).
- What I have presented here is only a sample of the stalls located in the market. They also offer paella, yogurt, pizza, sushi and more.
- The market can get really busy during lunch hours. When I say busy, I mean packed. It is not even possible to walk around the halls or order without competing with 20 people. Go early or late to enjoy a more serene ambience.
- Keep one of your purchase receipts if you want to use the restroom free of charge.
- The eating area is very small. Prepare to eat while standing.
- The market is open 10:00 a.m. to 12:00 a.m. Sundays to Wednesdays and 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 a.m. Thursdays to Sundays.
- Find more information about Mercado San Miguel here: http://www.mercadodesanmiguel.es/
What would you like to try at this market?
Pin it for later?
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Photo Cache says
Dios mio! Too much good food to see (and you tasted). I will have to find a way to go back to Madrid and find this market.
Ruth says
The place was insane! I wanted to keep visiting and visiting. I already miss the variety and treats.
Life Images by Jill says
Oh my goodness – this food market is amazing! It looks like you could get lost in there all day. I have been going to a Spanish Tapas cooking class this past 3 Monday’s, so your post has been a feast for the eyes to me. Have a great week. I will look forward to seeing more of Spain through your blog. It has been great to meet you through “Imag-in-ing”
image-in-ing: weekly photo linkup says
I bet the smells are amazing there!
Thanks for sharing at http://image-in-ing.blogspot.com/2015/11/waiting-for-metro.html
Karen @ Pieces of Contentment says
The Mercado San Miguel looks amazing! So much choice, but yes, I would definitely want to visit while quieter. Everything looks tasty – except maybe the imitation baby eels!
Pinay Flying High says
This is so cool! It reminded me of the Reading Terminal in Philadelphia. Like Mercado San Miguel, most of the stalls inside are family-owned handed down through generations. The food must be worth coming back for!
Ruth says
I am a fan of market. I will keep in mind the one your mentioned in Philadelphia. The good was delicious! I visited each day I was in Madrid. I liked it ’cause you weren’t restricted to one things or style.
Johanna Bradley says
A dizzying display, Ruth! I got stuck at those gorgeous nuts 🙂
I’d love to visit Madrid. I’ve seen so many great articles about it. Maybe someday. 🙂
Ruth says
Madrid is a great city. You would love it. It has an incredible arts scene, amazing food and friendly locals. It delivers what you expect (or more!).
Eileen says
Wow, I can understand why this place was a must see! I would like to eat there too, it would be a hard decision on what to eat though.There is so much food to pick from. Wonderful post and photos. Thanks for sharing your trip! Enjoy your day!
Ruth says
Yes, it is hard to pick. I think that is why I kept going, to try different things. But, you can always go with friends, order several things and share.
Natalie says
I visited Madrid many years ago but did not attend this market. How wonderful does it look? Stuffed artichoke hearts, olives, hams and other cold meats. Yummo!
Ruth says
The market was reopened about 6 years ago (after a renovation). Maybe it wasn’t open when you visited. Twelve years ago, I visited Madrid for the first time. Of course, the market wasn’t there (at least, in its current splendor).
Kelleyn says
Totally yummy!
http://travelingbugwiththreeboys-kelleyn.blogspot.com/2015/11/halloween-15.html
Ruth says
Agree! Thanks for stopping by.
Sally@Toddlers on Tour says
I can see why this place was on your must see place to visit. What a selection of delectable seafood and yummy sweets.
Ruth says
This place was in all the lists I read about top markets in Madrid. To be honest, I wasn’t expecting to be that awesome. I think that is one of the reasons I travel: to be surprised.
Lyndall says
Wow Ruth, what an incredible display of deliciousness! My mouth is watering now.
Ruth says
Thanks Lyndall. I hope I can stumble upon other similar places in the future.
Kathy Marris says
Oh my goodness! You just had me drooling over your page and running to my fridge to cut off a bit chunk of cheese! I have never seen such a delectable array of foods in one place. You must have thought you had died and gone to “food heaven”! Love all the varieties of olives.
Ruth says
Kathy, your description is a pretty accurate account of how I reacted. There was so much stuff to eat. I wanted to try everything.
Malinda @mybrownpaperpackages says
Ok I’d probably have ditched everything else and just spent my 17 days here eating my way around all the stalls.YUM! Looking forward to reading all about your trip.
Thanks for joining in #wednesdaywanderlust
Ruth says
The good thing is that all the cities we visited have their own markets. So, each stop was an opportunity to have great food and have a taste of the local specialties.
Bumble Bee Mum says
OMG, those TAPAS! I want to eat them all!! Spain is a place I’ve been wanting to visit for the longest time ever – mainly for the Gaudi buildings. But all those food, I think I am going to LOVE Spain when I go there. Just not sure when. What’s up with the grumpy gingerbread men though. #TravelTuesday
Ruth says
I think you are going to love Spain. If you love food, this is the place to be. I do not know what was going with the grumpy gingerbread men but I though they were cute.
Corinne says
Oh Ruth, You have my mouth watering for tapas. Luckily I’m headed to Bilbao in just a couple of weeks!
Ruth says
Corinne, have you been to Bilbao before? If not, you are going to love the city. There is plenty to eat and do. I was actually surprised by Bilbao and the Basque Country. I wasn’t expecting it to like it that much.
Brooke of Passport Couture says
Since I’m not a huge seafood fan, I’d love to try any of the sweets and the stuffed artichoke hearts look amazing! I love tapas and the Spanish way of eating and enjoying food. We definitely need to enjoy food more often!
budget jan says
We have been there and agree it is a beautiful building, full of beautiful food. Everyone seemed to be having a wonderful time too. I also love that olive plus stall. 🙂
Ruth says
Jan, great to know you have visited the Mercado.. What you had when you visited?
Angie Rose says
Wow Ruth, so much deliciousness in one post! What beautiful photos, now I am hungry. That cafe looks amazing and all that cheese! Thank you for sharing, have a wonderful weekend 🙂
Ruth says
Angie, it was a great experience. We did cheese tasting and everything we tried was delicious. Thanks for stopping by!
Cathy Sweeney says
Wow – what a fantastic gastronomic experience. I spent a couple of days in Madrid, but did not visit Mercado San Miguel — my loss! It looks amazing. I think I’ll be getting my share of codfish in Portugal next month. I hear it’s very popular there, too. Madrid is wonderful and I want to return – next time I’ll go to market.
Ruth says
Hope you can get back to Madrid soon. I want to go back soon. I visited several mercados but this one was the best. I am sure you are going to find great codfish dishes in Portugal.
Kelly Del Valle says
OMG awesome!!!! So many cool sights, and such yummy looking food! Your posts always make me hungry for something other than veggie burritos, which is my go to breakfast lunch and dinner. 😉
Glad you’re back, and happy to hear you had such an awesome trip!
Ruth says
Hi Kelly, it is good to be back. You know a lot of times I am going to have something yummy in the blog. So, better to visit with a full stomach. Ha, ha!
XX, Will Travel says
Gorgeous pics! I definitely need to plan a trip to Spain!
Ruth says
Yes, you do! Spain is great.
Paula McInerney says
This brought back great memories of our recent trip to Madrid and exploring the Mercado San Miguel. I loved all of the colours and the smells and the people
Ruth says
I guess it feels good to remember the Mercado. We are know following it on social media so we can see all the food photos.
Mary {The World Is A Book} says
Welcome back, Ruth! Wow..that’s quite a trip to Spain. Can’t wait to read the stories. I love love Mercado de San Miguel. We ate there everyday during our two visits to Madrid. It’s such a great place and all of your delicious looking photos brought back such wonderful memories. Our whole family especially loved Horno San Onofre. I still dream of their pastries!
Jen says
What lovely photos! I’ve missed you, but if this is what we get when you go away, then it was worth it! I cannot wait to see the rest of your photos.
Thank you for sharing with us at Photo Friday gain this week! We’re so happy to have you back!
Ruth says
Hey Jen! I had plans to continue my online activities while on the trip. But, you have no idea of how tired I was after sightseeing and walking around. Some days, we were walking 10 to 12 miles a day. Plus, the WiFi in some hotels were not that good and I had no energy to fight that. Glad to be able to share my experience.
Stella Lee@ Purfylle says
What an incredible degustation experience! Now I’m hungry. I particularly want to try the sweets, coffee and cheeses! Yumm
Ruth says
Thanks Stella! Those are good choices. The cheese was excellent in here.
Anda says
I was blown away by Spain too, Ruth. I visited Madrid some years ago and your post about Mercado San Miguel reminded me a lot about that trip. I visited the market and I remember drooling over everything there. Great pictures!
Ruth says
Thanks Anda! Food in Spain is so good. There are some restaurants here in Southern California but nothing compares to the real thing. I was impressed with Madrid’s food scene.
Natasha says
Looks like you’ve been having a wonderful time, the food looks so yummy! Madrid is somewhere I’ve always wanted to go, I’ve heard so many wonderful things about it, especially the food. I think I could spend all day just wandering around and trying things. – Tasha
Ruth says
Tasha, our last day of the trip was spent in Madrid. Like you mentioned, we took it easy and walk around eating some good food. I was the perfect end to an amazing trip.
Traveling Rockhopper says
I wish, we have more markets like this one…
Ruth says
I wish the same thing. Recently, a new commercial development was opened close to where I live. I went to take a look and nothing looked out of the ordinary in terms of food. I don’t know why they do not open a market / food hall concept. That will be more appealing to the locals.
Muza-chan says
Beautiful…
Ruth says
Thanks!
Anna says
I keep reading about this Market, so I HAVE to visit it one day (and Madrid as well)!!
Ruth says
It is so great. I understand why you keep reading about it.
Tara says
Yum! Another amazing market to add to my list. Your photo tour was pretty inspiring. What decadence! Thanks for sharing your trip with us.
Ruth says
Thanks Tara! Do not take this market from your list. You will like it for sure.
Michele {Malaysian Meanders} says
My mouth is watering looking at all your photos and reading the descriptions. This mercado must be enormous. I need to remind myself to show up very, very hungry as I don’t know if I could limit myself to just a few of these delights.
Ruth says
I would say the market is big enough. It is not as big as other markets I visited in Spain. However, since this one is a bit smaller, it is easy to navigate. It is a great place and I think it should be visited if you are in the city.
Ting at My Travel Monkey says
A great write up of all the stalls – it’s such a fantastic place isn’t it? I was happy to spend all day here sampling all the delights. Thanks for bringing back good memories and for linking up with #MondayEscapes
Nancie says
Hi Ruth, and welcome back! I spent quite a bit of time at the Mercado San Miguel when I was in Madrid. Loved it! I couldn’t get enough of the different cheeses and olives. I loved the sherry corner, and there was also a lovely wine bar that I frequented. It definitely is popular place in Madrid. Anytime I went in it was busy.
Ruth says
Great to hear you have been! Yeah! We couldn’t get enough either. That is why we went every day we were in Madrid. We found it not too crowded early morning and late night.
Vlad says
Welcome back, can’t wait to hear all your stories 😀 I’ve been to Spain four times, but haven’t made it to Madrid yet, but that’s where my next trip to Spain will be. I’d like to visit this market, because I love the one in Barcelona. 🙂
Ruth says
Vlad, yes, you have to visit Madrid. It is very different form Barcelona. Sometimes, I wish I could move to Europe. It will be great to travel all around.
Nancie Lee says
Oh my goodness what an amazing place!! Your photos made everything looks so delicious! I’ve never been to a food market quite like that, but I know I would want to try everything!! Definitely a must see place when in Madrid! Thanks for sharing!