In January, we took a whale watching excursion around the southern end of the Santa Monica Bay.
We had a fantastic time full of blows, flukes and even one breach. The naturalists on board illuminated us with a great deal of interesting facts.
That three hours trip intensified a desire I had for a long time. I have done many whale watching trips around the California Coast but for years I have wanted to visit the whales breeding and birthing grounds. This time I took action.
In March, I found myself 450 miles (720 km) south of the international border. The town of Guerrero Negro, located in the Baja California Sur state, is located close to the Ojo de Liebre Lagoon (Hare Eye or Scammon’s Lagoon), an important habit for the reproduction of the gray whale.
Every winter, gray whales leave their homes in the Bering and Chukchi Seas and travel 5,000 to 6,800 miles south to the calving lagoons of Baja California. It is the longest mammal migration on planet Earth.
By late December – early January, the whales arrive to one of three principal lagoons in Mexico: Ojo de Liebre (the biggest lagoon), San Ignacio and Magdalena. The first two lagoons are part of the Vizcaino Biosphere Reserve which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a Ramsar Wetland.
The pregnant mothers arrive first to the lagoons. This year experts estimate we had one thousand births (that is a record breaking number).
The company we traveled with arranged a morning whale watching trip for us. We started the day with a substantial breakfast and a talk about all things whale.
The guides gave details about the whale’s migration, feeding habits and, ahem, reproduction activities. Let’s just said things got very graphic and everybody was chuckling uncontrollably. I do not want to get into details but you can imagine how challenging the process is if you weigh 40 tons and are floating in the water.
After a good laugh, instructions were given (what is allowed and what is not allowed) and we proceeded to board the vans.
Mexico has specific laws in place regarding whale-watching activities from vessels to minimize stress on the whales, to protect them from unintentional injury by boaters and to ensure that the mothers and calves are never separated from each other. All the activities presented in this post comply with Mexican law.
Guerrero Negro is also famous for having the biggest salt works in the world. We passed the salt mines operating area en route to where we were going to board the boats. Sounds cliché but the vistas were mesmerizing.
Once seated with life jackets adjusted, our little panga sped up through a maze of white dunes and turquoise seas. After 20 minutes, the motor halted and we started to move at a very slow speed. There we were in the middle of the lagoon. It was waiting time.
We visited Baja during a stormy weekend. While we were down there, it was raining cats and dogs in Los Angeles. We had gorgeous blue skies and a shining sun but the winds were high. The panga was moving like a hammock and some waves were beating us.
But, we didn’t have to wait long. Whales started to breach in the distance. After that, we were able to see their dark bodies glistening under the sun rays.
Then, they started to get closer. People in the boat started to see the babies. The moms keep the babies in their backs until they learn the proper way to breath. Since they are closer to the surface, it is easier to spot them.
The guides described the gray whales as 40 tons puppies. Nobody understands why but they like to interact with humans. It is a mystery why such a big animal approaches boats in the lagoon. What is more, they let their babies, their most valuable possession, to hang around the boats.
A mom and a calf started to move around our boat. I describe their actions as “showing off.” They were turning around, sticking the tails out and moving their flippers in front of us. They blow us several times.
My husband was able to catch the moment in video. Notice how close the whales get to our boat.
[youtube width=”500″ height=”344″]https://youtu.be/cTIr26wPifg[/youtube]
You can see how rough the sea was when we visited. The company’s owner provided me with the following video so you can see how different the experience is when the sea is calm.
[youtube width=”500″ height=”344″]https://youtu.be/MrtANYyt4YY[/youtube]
It has been said that this type of whale tries to make eye contact with humans. Call me crazy but after being so close to them, I felt like they were looking at us straight in the eye. I cannot explain what you feel when you see the whale’s eye. Let me just say that for a short period of time, we were all kids again.
The interaction continued while we were in the lagoon (with different whales since the interaction is up to them, if they leave, they leave, the boat cannot follow them).
This has been one of the most beautiful things I have ever experienced. It is one of those experiences when you feel at awe with nature.
I think nobody can truly understand the beauty of whales (and of other marine mammals) until they go to see them in their natural habitat. After observing their behavior in nature, you understand why they deserve respect and care.
On a separate topic, let me say that we were able to spot other species in the protected areas surrounding the lagoon.
We also had the opportunity to see more of the salt works.
I encourage you to join a whale watching trip and join the protection efforts on their behalf.
Details
- I arranged this excursion with Tours in Baja. The land tour includes whale watching, sightseeing along the coast and desert, breakfasts, 2 nights accommodation, insurance and all transportation. We were picked up in Rosarito but they can pick up people in San Diego. In addition, they arrange tours to other parts of Baja. They are completely professional, speak perfect English and I cannot recommend them enough. You can reach them by e-mail at fernando.toursinbaja@gmail.com or by phone at 52 (664) 409 8032.
- The other option is to drive or arrange your own transportation to Guerrero Negro. Take into consideration the town is in the middle of nowhere and the closest commercial airports are 400 miles away.
- Some people prefer to whale watch in the southernmost lagoon (Magdalena) since it is about 110 miles from Loreto or La Paz. Those towns have direct flights from the United States and big cities in Mexico.
- Do some research before booking your whale watching tour. Make sure the company you are choosing is regulated by the proper agencies. Ask questions.
- Read about responsible whale watching behavior. For example, you can visit the web pages of the International Whaling Commission or the Cetacean Society International.
- There is not a uniform set of international whale watching laws. What is legal in one country may not be legal in another.
- If you are interested in this topic, try to learn more about its different aspects. Knowledge is the only way to spread the correct message and contribute towards the conservation efforts. The same goes for other animal or plant species.
- Many thanks to Tours in Baja for allowing me to use their video and for a great time. As a clarification, I paid for this experience form my own pocket and did not receive any compensation or discount to write about it.
Would you like to whale watch in Baja?
Pin it for later?
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Jennifer (aka Dr. J) says
This looks really cool! I was actually in LA in January. I didn’t realize that it was whale season. I have to say that I don’t love boats (fear of getting seasick) so that tempers my enthusiasm a bit for whale watching. Your photos really make me want to overcome this fear though and get out there! Thanks for sharing…. #MondayEscapes
Ruth says
If you whale watch in the big boats, the boats do not move that much since they are constantly moving around (so you do not feel the movement that much). Also, there are bracelets that help you with the sea sickness. I have not tried them so I am not sure how effective they are. In Baja, you go on a small boat (a panga). So, if the sea is rough, you are going to feel it.
beatravelling says
I have been wanting to do this for a long time, just that I’d prefer not to be on a boat for ages to get to “the spot”. Recently I have learned that there are whale watching opportunities not far from where I grew up, so I’m gonna to that hopefully in near future.
Ruth says
When I have whale watched in California, the boat does not to go far since the whales are swimming near the coast. In Baja, it took 20 minutes to get to the lagoon.
Trish @ Mum's Gone To says
I have been whale-watching in Iceland but the weather was so rough I was dreadfully seasick. I would love to try it again somewhere calmer. I’m amazed at how close you got to the whales – what an incredible experience. #mondayescapes
Ruth says
I can imagine. I have read the weather can change very quickly in Iceland. In Mexico, you can see the gray whales from up close. Not sure if you can do this with other species.
Karen says
I have wanted to go whale watching for, oh, about 20 years, but I have never found anyone willing to go. This looks like so much fun. I want to look into the eye of the whale too. Hopefully I can convince my husband when we’re back in the area. 🙂
Ruth says
You have to go. It is a great experienced. I am surprised you have not found a partner in crime. I am sure you are going to find somebody.
Photo Cache says
I am happy to know that there are rules about whale watching and that the govt is taking into account the stresses on the animals. Someday I’d like to try this activity. I think the closest I could do this from where I live is in Monterey.
Hoped your Easter was peaceful and full of delicious noms.
Ruth says
In Mexico, the gray whale is a species with special protection. They are also protected in Canada and the United States. I am sure there should be whale watching trip close to where you live.
Meagan at A Friend Afar says
Just found you on Monday Escapes. This is SO exciting I went whale watching off Dana Point, CA last weekend, and I saw gray whales, too! I can’t believe you got this close to them. Makes me want to go again!
Ruth says
I want to see if I can whale watch again since the whales are on their way up to Alaska.
image-in-ing: weekly photo linky says
How exciting – I did a bit of whale watching in Dominica and was entranced. Thanks for sharing your photos at http://image-in-ing.blogspot.com/2016/03/the-endless-variety-of-orchids.html
Ruth says
Oh yes! I have heard about whale watching trips in Dominica. They pass around Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic too.
May Simpson says
Amazing photographs, they make me extremely envious!
I love that they are protecting these beautiful creatures and educating everyone on them too – very important.
I am hoping to take my mum to Iceland to see some of these magnificent creatures soon!
Thanks for sharing!
Love, May x
Ruth says
The species was endangered because of the whaling industry. The population have bounced back since the three big countries of North America are protecting them. Hope you make it to Iceland.
Kim Bergstrom says
Ok, I have Europe on my big trip planning list (celebrating the high schoolers graduating), but now it looks like whale watching in Baja needs to be high on my list.
Interestingly enough, here on the Oregon coast, we also see the whales as the head north during their annual migration, then as they head back south. Fortunately or unfortunately, they’re usually off in the distance. Not at all up close as you’ve described. How fun!
Ruth says
Yes, I know. Here is the California is the same. You can watch them from some distance (sometimes they get very close). But, the thing is that the boats are big in here. In Mexico, you go on the small boats so the close encounters are possible.
Cat / For Two, Please says
Looks super fun!! What a great way to enjoy the Mexico nature and wildlife 🙂
Ruth says
I love Mexico. Every time I go, I like it more. There are a lot of places that I have not visited yet.
Chandra@GreenComotion says
I absolutely enjoyed this post, with all the great details and photos of the whales and other creatures.
Thanks for the lovely tour!
Have a Happy Week ahead!!
Peace 🙂
Ruth says
Your welcome Chandra! Hope we all feel inspired and motivated to protect wildlife and the natural areas where they reside.
Rhonda Albom says
I have been whale watching a few times, and love it. I am glad there are rules and that people follow them.
Ruth says
I have whale watched before this experienced but I fully hooked now. Would like to do it next year again.
Grey World Nomads says
A once in a lifetime sight. Awesome! I’ve been several times at places where there should be Wales. But nothing … #MondayEscapes
Ruth says
Thanks! Hope that in the future you will go on a tour were you can actually see whales.
Eileen says
Hello, I would love to go whale watching there. Wonderful photos of the whales and are they seals or sea lions? Thanks for sharing your tour. Happy Tuesday, enjoy your day!
Ruth says
Eileen, they are sea lions. Seals are around too but we didn’t see them.
Jess @ Room Service Required says
I love whale watching. We timed our trip to Maui a while back specifically so that we would be at the height of whale season. What beautiful pictures. If you think that’s fun, try being in a kayak next to a whale! One of my favorite memories!
Ruth says
Ahhhh, I am not sure if I would be brave enough to kayak close to the whales. Well, I am saying that but I already saw them from up close on a very small boat. BTW, I do not know how to swim. Maybe that is why the kayak makes me a little bit nervous.
Cathy (MummyTravels) says
What an amazing experience – I’d love to go whale watching at all, but that sounds even more incredible. Thanks for linking up with #citytripping
Ruth says
Cathy, you have to try it one day. It is great when you see the blows in the distance or their bodies when they go up to breath. And, if you are lucky, they will jump in front of you.
Setarra says
Wow! This looks like it was such an amazing experience! I would totally be interested in going whale watching. I might be a little nervous because the boats look small compared to the size of whales (insert irrational fear of a tail smashing the water’s surface and overturning the boat here) but I think it would be soo worth it.
Ruth says
Well, you are not the only one worried about that. A lot of my friends have mentioned the same thing. For what we were told, there has been no accidents in 50 years of whale watching in this particular lagoon. It is like the whales are aware of their size and move very gently around it.
Michelle @ Mishfish13 says
Oh my gosh, that’s amazing!! I don’t think I’ve ever seen a whale in its natural habitat before. It must’ve given you chills!
Ruth says
Of yes, you get all sort of emotions. Some people cry when they see them popping their heads from the water.
Aditi Shukla says
What an exciting experience!!!!! #MondayEscapes
Ruth says
Yes, it is a very exhilarating experience! Thanks for stopping by!
Molly says
Oh wow, lucky you. I have ALWAYS wanted to do this
Mollyxxx
Ruth says
You should do it then! You would love it!
Packing my Suitcase says
I am soooo jealous!! I always wanted to go whale watching, and I hope it won’t be long until I go. I’m fascinated by whales since I was a kid.
What an amazing experience, I am certainly saving this post and the company’s name as I hope to do it some day! 😀
Great photos… happy that you shared your experience on #MondayEscapes 😀
Ruth says
When I am surrounded by wildlife, I feel in my element. Since I was kid, I have been interested in learning about different species. I hope this is not my last whale watching trip (or my last wildlife viewing trip).
jill says
Wow, wow, wow, Ruth! How amazing! I have had this on my wish list for a few years now but I think it will be awhile as I’m coming from the east coast. Thanks so much for sharing!
Ruth says
I wonder if there are whale watching activities in the East Coast. I know whales can be seen in the Caribbean Sea.
Sharon says
Wow! The images of the whales are stunning! I would love to take this excursion but me and little boats don’t agree. Looks like such a memorable time!
Ruth says
I know the small boat looks intimidating. I am the greatest chicken you can thing about. I am scare of a lot of things. For some reason, I felt very comfortable in the boat.
Rachel says
How amazing! I’ve always wanted to go whale watching, and this tour sounds great. I particularly like that the whales were able to get away from you if they wanted to – which it sounds like they didn’t! This is certainly something I’d like to do one day, and Baja sounds like a great place to do it.
Ruth says
Well, like I mentioned in the post, it is a waiting game. You are there waiting to see if the whales want to establish any type of contact. The day we went, we were the only ones that got a very close encounter.
Cindy says
Oh fun! I’ve always wanted to go down there and do that – but I didn’t know they carried the smallest babies on their backs. That is soooo cool.
Ruth says
I didn’t know about the babies either. I learned a lot about the gray whales down there. They are incredible creatures.
Sharon says
What an amazing experience. We whale watched in Hawaii, but didn’t see anything quite like that. We also could see them in the water in front of one of the places we stayed. In Hilo. But still, no babies and it wasn’t right next to our boat. How exciting.
Ruth says
In Hawaii, you can see humpback whales. Their behavior is different. Baja is one of the few places where you can get very close to gray whales.
budget jan says
I’ve heard before that looking into a whale’s eye is an incredibly moving experience. I love how close they come and the barnacles on their backs. I would not hesitate to do this tour.
Ruth says
My mom saw the video I have posted in here and started to cry. When they try to make eye contact, you can see how pure and friendly they are. Again, this is surprising since they are huge animals.
Kathy Marris says
Whale Watching is such an unique experience. There are heaps of cruises here on the Gold Coast in Queensland which go out off the coast during the months of May to October when the whale are migrating and giving birth, to warmer waters for winter. I now have an image of mating whales in my head! thanks for that! Gorgeous photos.
Ruth says
Nice! It will be great to go in one of those cruises. I saw some photos of whale watching in there and what you see looks pretty cool.
Christy Swagerty (whatupswags) says
What an amazing experience! Thank you for sharing such beautiful photos and words with us on Travel Tuesday!
Ruth says
Christy, no problem. I have learned so much about whales in the past month that I feel like I can write two additional posts with information.
Indrani says
Wow! This is a learning experience for sure!
I can imagine the thrill of watching something like this so close! Some day I must experience this.
Ruth says
It feels incredible. Like I mentioned in the post, I felt like they were putting a show for us.
Trekking with Becky says
What a great experience! I’ll have to come back when I get out of mainland China since YouTube isn’t allowed here.
I never thought of going whale watching, but this definitely makes me want to go. 😀
Ruth says
Yeah, the video is more incredible than the pictures. You are going to like it.
kid can doodle says
Looks like you got really close. Great photos! Great trip!
Ruth says
Thanks! I know what you mean but let me clarify that we did not necessarily get close to the whales. The whales got close to us.
Jade @ Captured By Jade says
Wale watching is very much a bucket list item for many people; it seems like such an incredible experience. The images you’ve captured are really great, and the memories sure to be treasured.
Ruth says
That is true Jade. I will never get tired of whale watching. Every time I go I learn something new. And, sometimes you see different type of whales. Every boat ride is different.
Anna says
This looks SO COOL!!! I can’t believe how close they got to the boat… just incredible! And that video with the people petting the whales… I would die to do that!!
Ruth says
Isn’t that cool! I didn’t have the opportunity to touch the whales but I was happy to see them from up close.
Katy says
What an amazing experience. It’s amazing how gracefully whales move given their size. I am sure this will be a trip that is remembered for many many years #weekendtravelinspiration
Ruth says
That is a great way to describe the whales movement. They turn very slowly in the presence of the boats. I saw them breach but they did it very far form the boats.
Jessica @ Independent Travel Cats says
I am so happy you got to see so many whales and other sealife on your trip! I read about so many whale-watching trips where the only things that people see is seabirds and some fish. It was also great to hear about the increase in gray whale births, yeah! ~ Jessica
Ruth says
I guess I am lucky since I have seen whales in every trip I have been. And, not only one whales but seven to ten on each trip. I like that the population is increasing. That means that the protection laws are working.
Tara says
Hi Ruth,
This is my idea of a dream tour! I would love to visit with the grey whales. Thank you so much for sharing your experience!
Ruth says
Tara, my tour was brief and I chose it that way because I couldn’t be out of work for a long period. We only had one whale watching. There are trips that do multiple trips in different lagoons. I would like to try that one in the future (or visit by myself). The good thing is that there are certain options.
Rachel Heller says
It makes me wonder if maybe whales actually have a very sophisticated society, and these whales that approach people and look them in the eye are some sort of PR team, sent by the whole society to reach out to us and improve their image so we’ll stop killing them!
Ruth says
You are not that far from the truth. Not that long time ago the gray whale was hunted to almost the point of extinction. To kill the mother, whalers had to separate it from the baby. That made the mother angry as you have no idea. In that situation, the whale started to destroy everything that it found in its way. That gain them the name of devil whale. Once the whaling industry declined, the myths about the bad whales remained. Fishermen were scared on entering the lagoon on winter. That was until a whale approached a fisherman’s boat. She stayed close to the boat for several minutes. He then went to the town an recounted his experienced. He told everybody that they were wrong about whales. That is how people started loose the fear for the whales and those were the beginnings of the whale watching trips.
Jim @ ReflectionsEnroute says
Wow, what an amazing experience! We lived in Alaska for several years and got to see these incredible mammals many times. But never so up close and personal and never in their birthing area! Excellent article Ruth! Thanks for linking up with #wkendtravelinspiration!
Ruth says
Alaska is their summer home. It would be great to see them there. Thanks for your kind words!
Donna says
This sounds like a great experience although I would not have liked the rough waters. I wouldn’t have expected the whales to come so close to the boat.
Ruth says
You know, when we got to the lagoon and felt the water movement, I said to myself, “I am not going to last here for three hours.” But, I forgot about the rough seas once the whales started to show up. I felt bad for about 5 minutes but thank God it passed.
Elizabeth (Wander Mum) says
A magnificent experience – so glad you finally got to go and it was such a good, well managed tour. I saw sperm whales and dolphins in New Zealand and it was an amazing highlight… Although the whales kept their distance – unlike yours – the dolphins put on an awesome acrobatic show for us. Thanks for linking to #citytripping
Ruth says
We have tons of dolphins here in California. They always do something every time I get to the see. I saw minke whales on another tour. I would like to see different species. Would have to combine some trips with prime whale watching seasons.
Marcia says
I got goose bumps reading your post, especially when I saw your first photo with the whale. It reminded me of the movie Whale Rider – have you seen it? Like here, the whales were so beautiful, I cried when I saw them. I’d probably be a slobbering fool if I saw them up close like you did. You made me chuckle at the though of whales trying to mate in water. Thanks for the tour, Ruth. I’ll definitely consider a tour like this.
Ruth says
I have not seen the movie. I should see them since I am obsessed with whales now. Thanks for the recommendation. My mom cried when she saw the video. So, I think you are not the only one that get those feelings.
Swapna says
Stunning pictures ! Would love to see your posts in the Practical Mondays Link Up:)
Ruth says
Thanks a lot! I have to check the link up.
Anda says
Your detailed post and pictures made me feel like I was there with you, Ruth. I always wanted to see whales from close by, but never have the opportunity. When you said the Mexican government has very strict laws regarding the whale watching, I didn’t expect you’d be allowed to go so close to them. This must have been a great experience.
Ruth says
Let me say that the term “strict” may have different connotations depending the country. In Mexico, close contact with the whales is allowed but this may not be allowed in other countries. Some countries allowed you to swim with whales but Mexico does not allow that. There is no international set of rules followed or related to this activity (some organizations are proposing this).
Paula McInerney says
We went whale watching in Sydney last year, and it was much more exciting than I had anticipated. Trying to work out where the whales would arise next was a lot of fun. I agree that there needs to be a responsible approach to seeing these amazing animals.
Ruth says
It is exciting because everybody is looking and looking at the water to see if a whale appears. Then, when they show up people start to scream or cheer. It is fun indeed.
Andrea on Vacation says
I finally saw my first whale in Hawaii last month! But not this close and not this many! Those sea lions are adorable 🙂
Ruth says
Oh, we saw tons of whales and that was good. The sea lions are always trying to steal the show.
Bumble Bee Mum says
This is AMAZING! I haven’t even been on a whale watching tour once. But this whale watching tour with puppies is so going into my bucket list. I can’t believe how close you all got to the whales!
Ruth says
Well, the whales decided to get close to us! You have to really put this in your bucket list because it is an amazing experience.
Sophie says
I’ve only ever been to Cabo, but would love to see much more of Baja California. This whale watching excursion looks wonderful.
Ruth says
I want to see more of Baja too. I am fascinated by the food, people and landscapes.
Ashley says
This looks amazing – beautiful pictures as well! I’ve never been on a whale watching tour but have always been interested. Thanks for linking up to #WeekendWanderlust!
Ruth says
It would be great if you take one one day. You will like it.
NatureFootstep Travel says
been on tours bur never seen any up close.
You have a meme?
Ruth says
Yes, Travel Photo Thursday. Please, feel free to join us.
Nancie says
Hi Ruth. What a once in a lifetime experience! Your photos are fantastic. The fact that the whales are friendly, I think, would make the entire experience that much more special. There is whale watching in my home province, and it’s on to-do list for the next time I’m back in Nova Scotia. I think I’ll have to put Mexico on my whale watching list, too!
Thanks for hosting this week. #TPThursday
Ruth says
What type of whales are in Nova Scotia? It would be nice to take a trip there. Yes, you have to put Mexico in your list.
Nancie Lee says
I have always wanted to do that! Now I know where to go. What an amazing time. It’s so interesting that they do seem to look you in the eye. Just to be able to photograph their “showing off” would be a check on the bucket list for me. I’m glad they are treated with respect from the tour agencies too. Thank you for sharing!!
Ruth says
Nancie, you would not believe all the stuff they do to “get” you attention. One of them was waving her fin to us. It is funny when they blow water on you.
RobRob (@TravelLatte.net) says
Hi Ruth – It sounds, and looks, like you had an amazing time! I haven’t been to Baja in years, but now my girls are intrigued by the whales so maybe it’s time to return! Hopefully, we’ll get lucky like you did. I do wonder, when the whales come up and look right at you…what are they thinking???
Ruth says
Right? That is a great question. I think we humans still do not understand a lot of what happens in the animal word. Sometimes we just have to stand in awe.
Mary{The World Is A Book} says
WOW! What an incredible experience this was for you guys. I knew there was some whale watching south of the border but didn’t realize they got that close. It’s a far cry from the whale watching excursions we have in Southern California. Thanks for all the interesting information. If I can ever convince my husband to cross the border, then we’ll definitely do this.
Psychic Nest says
Hi Ruth,
I am captivated by your experience and your wonderful photos. I would totally love to watch the whales in Baja along with the adorable seals!
Zaria
Cabo Whale Trek says
Amazing Pictures
Cabo Whale Trek says
Love to see all the pictures thanks for sharing