This article highlights Caracol, Belize’s greatest archeological site, and Rio on Pools, a series of pools in the On River.
Before arriving to Belize, there was no doubt about it, I had to visit Caracol.
Caracol is the name given to an ancient Maya City located in the middle of the jungle within the limits of the Cayo District. Caracol is a Spanish word that means snail. There is no agreement on why the city was given that name. Some say it is because the many snails encountered in the area. Others believe the name was adopted because of the winding road that leads to the place.
Since I read about this place, I have been fascinated by it. Why? Because this is not an ordinary place. Let’s see why.
- This is the larger Mayan city located in Belize.
- In fact, it is way larger than the current capital of the country, Belize City.
- During its glory days, it supported more than twice the current population in Belize City.
- It holds the tallest structure in all the country. This means that a pyramid built by the Mayas is taller than any other structure built by the modern man.
That is not all. Going to Caracol is an adventure in itself. Even though the city is located 20 miles (about 40 kilometers) from the Cayo District’s main town (San Ignacio), it feels like a remote site forgotten by time. Most of the road leading to the ruins is unpaved. This makes the 20 miles trip last about 1.5 hours. Those 1.5 hours feel like an eternity when you are bumping and jumping all over.
The drive takes you first thru the Pine Ridge Reserve. As the name implies, the reserve is covered predominantly by pines. It is an area filled with sinkholes, caves and waterfalls. An ideal place to have a great adventure. At one point, the vegetation starts to change and becomes very dense. You realize that you have entered the jungle. Your final destination is closer.
Once you arrive to the entrance of the site (by the way, heavily guarded by the military), a walk thru the jungle and ruins starts.
The walk was different to what I have done before. First, your feet stepped over an old Mayan road leading to the city. Second, the fauna sightings were great. I saw toucans, monkeys, butterflies and all kind of insects. Third, well, this is really a wild place. Our guide told us not to get out of the trail for safety reasons.
What can be dangerous in here (humans, remember those soldiers at the entrance)? The place is inhabited by different types of dangerous snakes. The guide told us a riddle (!) in order to persuade us from disobeying his instructions. “If a snake bites you”, he said, “you have 8 minutes to get an antidote to counteract the poison. Now, how long it took us to get here?”
Butterfly
Stick insect
The flora was also interesting. We saw multiple ceibas which were sacred trees for the Mayas. We also saw a tree known as the gringo tree. Its trunk has a flaky surface and reddish tone. Locals say it makes them think about those pale tourists who bake in the sun and then are suffering when their skin starts to peel off.
A ceiba, the sacred tree of the Mayas
Gringo Tree, locals say it looks like pale skin tourists after they have been overexposed to the sun
There is another plant whose leaves are used to make soap and paper. Many locals penetrate the jungle (with all its dangers) to search for this plant. Buyers can pay up to a dollar per leaf.
Plant used to make paper and soap
After walking around admiring nature, the first ruins began to appear. Some were small structures but the guide explained the role of each in supporting the big amount of people who used to live in this place.
Small structure
Some of the small structures were seats (like bleachers) flanking a ball court. Mayas used to play a ball game which is believed to be similar to soccer. Some scholars say the game losers were sacrificed to the gods. Others say the game winners were the ones sacrificed because they played to have the honor of offering their lives. Two very interesting theories.
Ball court “bleachers”
Bigger structures started to appear. We were overjoyed at that moment. The guide told us the best was still ahead.
Medium sized structure in one of the plazas
Finally, we arrived at the main attraction. We were standing across from Caana, the tallest structure in the ancient city and in present day Belize. Take a look at the picture below. In my opinion, the picture doesn’t give you a good idea of the massiveness of this pyramid. For example, the temples of Tikal are tall and slender.
When you take a look at their pictures, they do look tall. Caana is different. It is tall and thick (huge base). Therefore, in photos, the thickness tends to fool you impression of the tallness.
The greatest structure of the site, Caana. The picture does not make it justice. This pyramid is enormous.
The climb to the top is kind of hard (too many steps). At one moment, you think you have made it. The reality is that there is still more to climb over the big base (like another pyramid over the main base).
When you think you are at the top of Caana, there is more to climb. The grass in this case is not over the floor but on the base of the big pyramid.
Me at the top of Caana
But at the end all the effort is worth. The view of the forest and other structures was phenomenal. You stand there thinking on how moments like those keep pushing you to discover more, to see more, to travel more. Today, you are at the top of Belize. Tomorrow, were you will be? It is a metaphor that keeps you going.
At the top of the world, well, at least at the top of Belize
After my wonderful visit to Caracol, we had the opportunity to stop at the Rio On Pools.
You may wonder what I am talking about. I tried my best to expand my knowledge on this site but wasn’t able to find any useful information on the Internet. I will try my best to describe the area and my experience.
Sign indicating the path to the Rio On Pools
Most of the day tours to Caracol include a visit to the Rio On Pools. As the name implies, you stop at an area where the Rio On (On River) forms tantalizing pools and refreshing waterfalls. In my mind, this is the perfect way to spend the afternoon after walking around the steamy jungle!!!
The pools are surrounded by the Mountain Pine Ridge, a wonderland of pines, water, caves and wildlife.
Mountain Pine Ridge
This is mainly a relaxation place. Well, a relaxation spot in the middle of the wild. Imagine yourself surrounded by different tones of green under the blue sky. The good thing is that the place does not get impossibly crowded. There is a well balanced mix of locals and travelers hanging around in a friendly mood.
You can opt to rest in one of the pools. The water shallowness and gentle movement is perfect. You will feel like in a natural Jacuzzi.
The beauty of Rio On Pools
View of the pools from another perspective
Or you can wander around the waterfalls area. We are taking about small falls in here. You can sit underneath them and feel the cool water moving over your body. The waterfall area is surrounded by boulders and rocks. Some like to do a little climbing around (imitating monkeys, maybe?). But watch out!! Use caution. I don’t want to see you slipping and falling over a bunch of rocks.
Waterfall Area
Approaching the waterfall
Having a little fun
Sometimes we go to places to be in contact with nature. I felt like I found that place that connects you with the country you are visiting. Belize has a lot of wonderful places (and other countries in the world too). But for some reason, the diamonds in the rough tend to steal your heart.
I constantly think about this place. I could have stayed there for a long time just contemplating the kids playing and the light changing during the different hours of the day. At least, I can say I found another little
gem.
Getting soaked after a day at the jungle
Note: The facilities at Rio On Pools are minimal (not sure if this have changed since I visited in 2008). The stalls available to change into dry clothes have no doors. My husband held a big towel in front of the stall to cover me from curious gazes. Don’t even remember if there are restrooms available. Therefore, plan your adventure accordingly (i.e. bring big towel, toilet paper, etc.).
What about you? Have you been to Caracol or Rio On Pools?
Let me know in the comments section.
Debbie Beardsley @ European Travelista says
I can see why you were excited to visit these ruins! I loved the tree with the gnarly roots showing and the red barked tree! Great story with that one 🙂 The views would be worth the effort getting to the top.
inka says
As always, fabulous pictures. I was right there with you.
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
Really interesting post. I skipped Belize when I went through Central America, so I don’t know much about the history or the sights.
And I like the Gringo Tree 🙂
Jan Ross says
When we visited, we floated down the river to get there – much easier! We had lunch at some resort right on the river that was absolutely surrounded by jungle and I wondered how much business they got. It was pretty deserted when we were there.
Belize Travel says
The Caracol Maya Temple tour is one of our most popular tours featured at our EcoLodge because the site and the Mountain Pine Ridge is simply breathtaking, you did a great job showcasing its uniqueness.
Cheers,
@chaacreek
Lisa says
What a great place to explore. I love your photos. That stick insect was a bit freaky, but I love that enormous sacred tree.