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You are here: Home / Blog / Saint Jean de Luz: Pure Basque Charm

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Saint Jean de Luz: Pure Basque Charm

I suffer from the over planning syndrome.  Before visiting a place, I build a three pages list of things to do, see and eat.  Then, when I am in the actual place, I start to worry about not having time to complete the “magic” list.

During the last couple of years, I have exercised some self-control and have been able to leave some wiggle room here and there on my final plans.

On my last visit to Spain, we planned to move quite a bit between cities, in a two weeks period.  That is why I stopped the urge to fill the days with side trips and excursions.  “Let’s absorb the vibe of the city,” was the motto of the trip.

I promise I was doing well until I was urged to do a day trip by none other than a taxi driver (gotta love them!).

Upon arrival to San Sebastian’s train depot, we hailed a taxi to get to the hotel.  Once we got into the car, my husband asked how far we were from France.  I wasn’t sure, therefore, I asked the taxi driver.

“I know what you are referring to.  We are XX km from the border.  But, in reality France starts further away.  The place you are referring to is still Basque Country.”

And, just like that we started a conversation about all the good stuff related to the Basque Country and why we had to visit the “French” side.

The ride lasted about 10 minutes but we were sold by this guy’s vivid descriptions.  The next day, we woke up early and walked towards the local train station.  We had to take the TOPO (the Basque has their own train system) to the end of the line (Irun), walk across the border and then jump into the French train system to our first destination of the day: Saint Jean de Luz.

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

This small town, located in the traditional Basque province of Labourd, has the only sheltered bay between Spain and Bordeaux.  As a consequence, the town reached a prosperity peak in the 17th century because of its fishing, trading and piracy industries. During this period, Saint-Jean-De-Luz became the second largest town in the Labourd region with a population or around 12,000, just behind Bayonne.

Saint-Jean-de-Luz is known for being the marriage site of Louis XIV to Maria Theresa, the Infanta of Spain.  The royal wedding was one of the clauses of the Franco-Spanish Treaty of the Pyrenees.

To the end of the nineteenth century, Saint-Jean-de-Luz became a popular beachside resort town for the surrounding high-society.  Like Biarritz (town located nearby), Saint-Jean-de-Luz was particularly appreciated by the French and Spanish aristocracy.

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Nowadays, the town (with Biarritz and the rest of the Basque Coast) is a popular tourist resort.  During recent years, the area has regained its chic, jetsetter reputation (it has been in most of the well-known travel publications such as Travel & Leisure and Conde Nast).  The area attracts big crowds during the summer months.

I like to think I have seen many beautiful, picturesque towns.  But, maybe I was not prepared for Saint Jean de Luz.  The town totally blew me away in terms of uniqueness and charm.  If I was already in love with Bilbao and San Sebastian, Saint Jean performed the slam dunk that buried my heart deep in the roots of the Basque Country.

I grabbed my map at the visitor’s office and did their suggested walk.

Table of Contents

  • The Market
  • Place Loius XIV
  • The Port
  • La Grand Plage
  • Promenade Jacques Thibaud
  • Rue Loquin
  • Rue Gambetta
  • Culinary Delights
    • Related posts:

The Market

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Place Loius XIV

IMG_8854

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

The Port

IMG_8869

IMG_8870

La Grand Plage

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Promenade Jacques Thibaud

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Rue Loquin

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Rue Gambetta

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Culinary Delights

The town is a foodie paradise.  After all, you are in Basque Country.  Here are some of the product that can be acquired in town.

  • Tuna, mackerel and sardine conserves
  • Marzipan
  • Macarons
  • Jambon (Ham) de Bayonne
  • Foie Gras
  • Regional Cheeses
  • La Rioja and Bordeaux Wines
  • Piment de Espellete
  • Basquaise Tart
  • All sorts of pastries

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

IMG_8856

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

Saint Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France

I felt like I was stuck in time while walking around time.  Before I knew, it was time to leave.  But, I am serious when I say this: I will be back.

Have you visited the French Basque Country?

Related posts:

Reasons to Visit Champagne, FranceChampagne: 9 Reasons to Visit this Region in France Things to do in Colmar, Alsace, FranceThings to Do in Colmar: A Fairytale Village Petite France StrasbourgPetite France Strasbourg: Fabulous Walking Tour Strolling Around Madrid Centro


73 Comments

« Bilbao: A City Full of Surprises
Santa Cruz Boardwalk in Photos »

Comments

  1. Jim, Sydney, Australia says

    May 9, 2016 at 10:16 pm

    I went there last year. Such a beautiful place.

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 12, 2016 at 5:27 pm

      Great! I want to go back and do a road trip around the area. I hope it will be sunny when I do that.

      Reply
  2. image-in-ing: weekly photo linky says

    May 10, 2016 at 2:00 am

    Beautiful place… and great series of photos.
    Thank you for sharing at http://image-in-ing.blogspot.com/2016/05/the-cats-of-san-juan.html

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 12, 2016 at 5:28 pm

      Thanks! Glad you liked it.

      Reply
  3. Photo Cache says

    May 10, 2016 at 8:37 am

    What a charming town indeed. I have never heard of it before this and I’m always curious about the Basque country so this is really very helpful. Awesome architecture too.

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 12, 2016 at 5:31 pm

      Seems like the French side has some of the most beautiful Basque villages. If you are interested in learning more you can read look for “Maribel’s Guides Pays Basque.”

      Reply
  4. Ava @ My Meena Life says

    May 10, 2016 at 9:32 am

    You’re right – it’s absolutely charming!

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 12, 2016 at 5:33 pm

      I am happy I followed the taxi driver’s advice ;0)

      Reply
  5. Anda says

    May 10, 2016 at 12:34 pm

    I am exactly like you, Ruth. I always bite more than I can chew when it comes to planning for our trips. However, the more you plan the more chances you have to see a lot, even if you don’t accomplish your “magic” list. Sometimes we do last minute things like you did and we never regret it. What a charming town you discovered! I’m sure you thanked that taxi driver in your mind.

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 12, 2016 at 5:35 pm

      I want to see as much as possible. People say you can always return to a place but, to be honest, the is not certainty you will return. I was really happy after this day of sightseeing.

      Reply
  6. Phoebe says

    May 10, 2016 at 12:51 pm

    St Jean de Luz has a special place in my husband’s heart as he spent many childhood vacations there and he took me there for one of our first trips away as a couple when I was pregnant with our first child 17 years ago. I loved it then but have never been back. Luckily we’re going this summer, so thanks for reminding what a great place it is. I’d love it if you’d link this to my #AllAboutFrance linky along with all the others you’ve linked up to as I don’t think I’ve ever read anything else by you about France. It’s a monthly linky (every first Thursday of the month) open till tomorrow evening but probably better to wait till next month (Thurs 2 June).

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 12, 2016 at 5:40 pm

      What a great story! I am sure you are going to have an amazing time on your next visit. This has been my only visit to France in more than 10 years. This is why I usually do not write about the country. I will add the post to the link next month.

      Reply
      • Phoebe says

        June 7, 2016 at 2:53 am

        I’m so glad you linked up this month Ruth, this area of France hasn’t been written about yet by anyone in the linky in 17 months so I’m sure people will love reading it. Please come back again if you have any other posts on France. #AllAboutFrance

        Reply
  7. Katrina says

    May 10, 2016 at 6:00 pm

    Wow. Simply stunning. I have a feeling I’d like this part of “France” better than I did Paris!

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 12, 2016 at 5:42 pm

      I am not a huge fan of France (I know some people are going to hate me after that) but this town took me by surprise. It is just so cute (like the rest of the Basque Country). I wish I could be back (and visit Bordeaux too).

      Reply
  8. merlanne says

    May 10, 2016 at 11:29 pm

    Oh what a beautiful place. I love France and visit this country very often, but I do not know Saint Jean de Luz. Thanks for this discovery.

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 12, 2016 at 5:45 pm

      You should include it in one of your trips to France. Look up the Cote Basque and the towns in the country side of the Pays Basque.

      Reply
  9. Lyn aka The Travelling Lindfields says

    May 11, 2016 at 1:16 am

    Your photos make the buildings look just gorgeous. We once spent a week in a holiday house not far from here. It was a long time ago and I don’t specifically remember Saint Jean de luz but I am sure we would have gone there. I remember Biarritz quite vividly though because there was some sort of commotion going on at the cathedral and there were riot police everywhere.

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 12, 2016 at 5:48 pm

      We went to Biarritz too. The weather deteriorated significantly when we were there. Therefore, we couldn’t enjoy the fabulous vistas of the beach. I hope I can go back (when sunny).

      Reply
  10. Birgitta says

    May 11, 2016 at 4:04 am

    Beautiful place and very nice and lovely photos!

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 12, 2016 at 5:49 pm

      Thanks Birgitta!

      Reply
  11. Lady Fi says

    May 11, 2016 at 7:46 am

    Such beautiful buildings! Gorgeous shots.

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 12, 2016 at 5:49 pm

      Glad you enjoyed them! Thanks for stopping by.

      Reply
  12. Cathy (MummyTravels) says

    May 11, 2016 at 12:38 pm

    Such a gorgeous place – I loved Biarritz (and what I’ve seen of the Spanish Basque country) but never made it to St Jean de Luz, as I was with friends who forced me to slow down rather than exploring the entire area. Another over-planner here too! I shall definitely have to find time to go back one day though. Thanks for linking up with #citytripping

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 14, 2016 at 9:39 pm

      I know people want to chill out in the area’s beaches but there is so much to see that that would be an impossible task for me. I went to Biarritz too but the weather didn’t cooperate.

      Reply
  13. Clare (Suitcases and Sandcastles) says

    May 12, 2016 at 6:35 am

    Oh it looks just lovely! I’ve been to Biarritz but never made it to St Jean de Luz. Clearly a big mistake. Great photos. #citytripping

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 14, 2016 at 9:40 pm

      Biarritz is nice but it doesn’t have the traditional Basque architecture. That is why the small towns are a must visit.

      Reply
  14. Rachel ¦¦ A Nesting Nomad says

    May 12, 2016 at 9:07 am

    It’s so colourful there! I love the rich history and cultural identity they have in the Basque country. I’d love to take a trip to Saint Jean de Luz.

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 14, 2016 at 9:41 pm

      That identity is what makes the place attractive. They are different in there and you feel like you want to learn more about them and about their traditions.

      Reply
  15. Rachel ¦¦ A Nesting Nomad says

    May 12, 2016 at 9:08 am

    Hmm, not sure if my previous comment posted or not but basically, this place looks awesome! So colourful! And I hope I get to go one day 🙂

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 14, 2016 at 9:42 pm

      Yes, it went thru. Sometimes comments go directly to the Spam folder and I have to take them out of there. Not sure why it works like that for some people but not for others.

      Reply
  16. Catherine says

    May 12, 2016 at 12:43 pm

    Oh my gosh, all those charming buildings. Loved the tour of St. Jean de Luz. Basque culture is very interesting. We visited Carson Valley, Nevada (not far from Lake Tahoe) last year and were totally surprised to learn about Basque heritage there. Had a traditional Basque dinner (and spirits), too.

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 14, 2016 at 9:44 pm

      I have heard a lot about the Basque community in Nevada. It is something I want to experience (no doubt about that). There is also a community in Bakersfield. I hope I can eat in one of the restaurants there one day.

      Reply
  17. Indrani says

    May 12, 2016 at 6:14 pm

    No… not there yet.
    I need to stretch my itinerary a bit next time I am there. Lots of stuff to do and see and your pics are exciting my travel hormones. 🙂

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 14, 2016 at 9:45 pm

      You are like me. You do not need more travel ideas but keep reading magazines and blog posts and the list of places to see keeps growing. Glad you are considering a visit to the city.

      Reply
  18. Kathy Marris says

    May 12, 2016 at 11:44 pm

    Yes thank you for sharing these beautiful photos of such a gorgeous place. I haven’t done much of Europe at all, but I am remedying that next year where I hope to travel to Italy and do an Adriatic Sea cruise.

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 6:39 pm

      Uhhh! An Adriatic cruise sounds nice. Hope you can concrete those plans.

      Reply
  19. Aditi says

    May 12, 2016 at 11:53 pm

    Ah! Taxi drivers and local tips! You gotta listen to them. What a charming little town. Thanks for the fascinating picture tour!

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 6:40 pm

      Taxi drivers are a fantastic source of information. I love to talk to them.

      Reply
  20. budget jan says

    May 13, 2016 at 2:50 am

    I haven’t been to Basque Country in Spain or in France. I was struck by how much red is featured in their buildings.

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 6:41 pm

      Isn’t it gorgeous? Red is not my favorite color but have to say it works wonders on these buildings.

      Reply
  21. Trekking with Becky says

    May 13, 2016 at 5:39 am

    I’m like you that I do all my homework before visiting a new place. I prioritize and do as much as I can because you just don’t know if you’ll make it back again.

    Great job, as usual. The colours of European buildings always get my attention. 😀

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 6:42 pm

      Shout out to all the planers out there! I know I am not the only one. Thanks for stopping by.

      Reply
  22. Sadie says

    May 13, 2016 at 7:23 am

    What a great impromptu trip!

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 6:43 pm

      Lately, all my impromptu trips have gone very well. I am believing in the magic of last minute trips.

      Reply
  23. Michelle says

    May 13, 2016 at 7:19 pm

    The town looks lovely! I’ve been hesitant about going to the Basque country for language-related reasons as I typically go to Spain to practise my Spanish and I’ve heard that (similar to Barcelona) people there don’t really like it if you speak Spanish! I notice a lot of the signs there seem to be in French – do a lot of people there speak French?

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 6:50 pm

      Michelle, I have heard the same but I do not think that is completely true. Everywhere I went in Barcelona, Bilbao or San Sebastian, people spoke to me in Spanish. And, I am referring to cases where they started the conversation. I cannot tell if they like to speak in Spanish but I didn’t see any gestures or attitudes that were signaling any type of discomfort. So, I do not think you should be hesitant about visiting (this may not be true in more off the beaten path destinations). In the French Basque Country, French rules (some people know Spanish). But, again, this shouldn’t matter. There is always a way to communicate.

      Reply
  24. Brooke of Passport Couture says

    May 13, 2016 at 8:57 pm

    The architecture is beautiful! The darker, gem tones against the white caught my eye. Everything about Saint Jean de Luz is so charming!

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 6:51 pm

      I know! The color palette is beautiful. Red is a popular colors in the area.

      Reply
  25. Katy says

    May 14, 2016 at 3:31 am

    Love how you manage to find these wonderfully interesting out of the way places Ruth. Saint Jean de Luz looks exactly the type of place I would like to visit… delicious food, beautiful architecture and Hello Kitty cookies!

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 6:52 pm

      In my travels, I try to find interesting places that are not super popular. I have been lucky enough to find great places. I am positive I am going to find more int he future.

      Reply
  26. Corinne says

    May 14, 2016 at 4:06 am

    Ruth, What a gorgeous little city. I’ve never heard of it before, maybe because I don’t plan enough. I will have to visit next time I’m in northern Spain!

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 6:53 pm

      Great! I am happy you found out about a city because of me. This is an area you have to add to your travel plans.

      Reply
  27. Erin Klema | The Epicurean Traveler says

    May 14, 2016 at 2:01 pm

    Wow, I didn’t realize how cute Basque Country is! So, basically I need to visit both the Spanish and the French sides, huh? The food and drink are reason enough to visit, but then to hear about the fascinating history and to see how charming the streets and architecture look … I’m totally sold. Added to my ever-growing bucket list!

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 6:56 pm

      I say you have to visit both sides. Each one is unique but great in its own right. I am so in love with the area. I can talk about it for hours. I am checking what Basque restaurants I can visit in California.

      Reply
  28. Elizabeth (Wander Mum) says

    May 14, 2016 at 5:26 pm

    Sounds an amazing place. I’ve been to San Sebastián but not ventured to the French side of the Basque Country. It’s a fascinating region though and the food is immense! Thanks for linking to #citytripping

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 7:03 pm

      Yes, the food scene alone is worth the trip. The food in San Sebastian is better than in the French side but there are some specialties in the French side that are worth the side trip.

      Reply
  29. Paula McInerney says

    May 14, 2016 at 10:11 pm

    I am a born organiser by nature, but Gordon has instilled in me the belief in serendipity. What happens, happens and sometimes these are the very best experiences, as it was for you.

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 7:07 pm

      My husband is the same way. I have learned to make room for the spontaneous thing me likes to do.

      Reply
  30. Jessica @ Independent Travel Cats says

    May 15, 2016 at 4:56 am

    Hi Ruth, Sounds like you had a very persuasive taxi driver! I have not been to the Basque region although I have been in parts of France where there is definitely a Spanish influence. This town looks really lovely!

    BTW – if you are looking for any tips on mirrorless cameras, just email us as Laurence is very happy to recommend models that fit your budget and preferences 🙂

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 7:10 pm

      Thanks Jessica! it would be great if you and Laurence visit the Basque Country. I am sure the photos would be fabulous.

      Reply
  31. annette @afrenchcollection says

    May 15, 2016 at 12:12 pm

    Sometimes doing something on a whim is the very best way to experience new things. Glad it went so well you plan to return… Annette

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 15, 2016 at 7:32 pm

      That is true! I hope I can go back to discover more. Who knows what unplanned places I will discover.

      Reply
  32. Grey World Nomads says

    May 16, 2016 at 1:27 pm

    I’m planning a stay in that region for this summer and will surely visit Saint Jean de Luz after reading your post. Thanks so much! #TravelTuesday

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 22, 2016 at 9:03 pm

      Oh yes! Do not miss the town. I am sure you are going to like it.

      Reply
  33. Sally-Ann says

    May 16, 2016 at 9:35 pm

    What a mixture of architecture.
    One minute Swiss chalets, the medieval England, then little French homes. I bet you are glad you let the taxi driver talk you into going.

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 22, 2016 at 9:03 pm

      That taxi driver deserves kudos for his recommendation. I loved the town.

      Reply
  34. RobRob @TravelLatte(.net) says

    May 17, 2016 at 6:49 pm

    Nice to know there are others who suffer Over Planning Syndrome. I do it all the time but, like you, have been trying hard to tone it down. I haven’t been to Basque Country yet, but following your posts have really made us want to visit even more. So pretty!

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 22, 2016 at 9:05 pm

      Seems like over planner and traveler go hand in hand. It is difficult not to jam pack your itinerary when you want to see everything.

      Reply
  35. Vlad says

    May 21, 2016 at 1:26 am

    I suffer from overplanning syndrome too, although lately I’ve been trying to keep the planning to a minimum necessary. Isn’t it great when we discover places we didn’t originally intend on visiting? Your photos are lovely, as always 🙂

    Reply
    • Ruth says

      May 22, 2016 at 9:06 pm

      Thanks Vlad! Finding surprising places is at the essence of traveling and exploring.

      Reply
  36. peregrinationgourmande says

    May 23, 2016 at 12:10 am

    Hi! Finally I ‘m here! I’m so sorry St jean de Luz didn’t put its blue sky for you! I love this town. It’s such a lovely colorful little town. And the food is… arrrggghh
    xx cathy

    Reply
  37. Tanja says

    June 8, 2016 at 6:09 am

    cute houses! #allaboutfrance

    Reply

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