Planning to visit Ensenada, Mexico? Make sure to read this!
After living in Southern California 15+ years, you bet I have jumped to Baja more times that I can remember.
Blame my Latin blood, my love for food or my devotion to Mexico but I need to stop by Tijuana, Rosarito or Ensenada at least twice a year. I still have to discover, eat and drink a lot!
Today, I want to give you some tips that are going to be useful when planning a visit to Ensenada.
I am providing details on how to stay safe, how to handle money, what to do, what to eat, what to bring and how to move around.
There is a lot to be said about Ensenada. So, if you have questions, feel free to reach out.
Table of Contents
About Ensenada
Ensenada is located 70 miles from the International Border (1.5 hours), 90 miles from San Diego (2 hours) and 200 miles from Los Angeles (4 hours). Because of its location, it is an ideal weekend gateway from Southern California.
Ensenada is a quite large port city counting with a wide range of modern amenities. Its closeness to the sea, fertile valleys and Mexico’s premier wine country, makes it a paradise for those who are looking to expand their culinary horizons.
On a personal level, I keep returning to the city because of its gastronomic scene. There are always new things to try.
Ensenada has been declared a UNESCO creative city. Give yourself some time to discover its many faces.
Safety in Ensenada, Mexico
Tip 1
I tend not to comment about issues related to safety in Mexico since I do not want to perpetuate the bad reputation some individuals and mediums give to the country.
However, I am going to make an exception since a lot of people do not seem to understand why I visit places like Ensenada. I keep getting asked if I am not afraid of going or if I have run into dangerous situations.
Let me start by saying that I would never recommend on this site a visit to a place I consider unsafe. I write about places I have visited and know well. In the case of Ensenada and Baja California, I have been countless time with my husband, friends, and groups. I have been there with people of different ages (babies to 70-years old).
I have enjoyed every single visit and have never felt threatened. Things would be ok if you follow the proper precautions and are aware of your surroundings.
Tip 2
Follow all Mexican laws. Don’t do in Mexico what you wouldn’t do at home. Be particularly careful about laws related to underage drinking, drugs, driving under the influence, weapon possession and littering.
Tip 3
The same applies to driving-related laws. Do not drive over the speed limit, fails to wear a seatbelt or use a cell phone while driving.
Tip 4
If you are stopped by the police, insist on a written citation and ask for details on how to pay the fine.
You may have heard about parts of Mexico where cars are stopped to ask for a kickback. This is not a common practice in Baja California.
Tip 5
You may encounter military checkpoint along the road or highways. Follow instructions and cooperate if you are randomly selected for a routinary search.
Tip 6
Police officers and soldier may be carrying rifles or other long weapons. This seems to disturb some people. Do not worry. This is completely normal.
Tip 7
It is advisable to have cell phone coverage in Mexico. Many telecommunication companies are including Canada and Mexico in their regular voice and data plans.
If your company does not cover this, check how much it would cost to have coverage for the length of your stay.
An application like Google Maps would be invaluable when navigating the streets.
Tip 8
Make sure you are carrying your passport or passport card before crossing into Mexico.
Make photocopies of all your important documents and have them separate from the actual documents. It is a good idea to scan your documents and have them on your e-mail inbox (as an extra precaution).
Tip 9
Residents of Baja California are known to have a good dominion of the English language. However, do not count on people knowing English and do not complain if people do not understand you.
Brush up on your Spanish or use a translating app if in need.
Transportation in Ensenada, Mexico
Tip 10
The best way to reach and move around Ensenada is by car. This will give you the ability to see the attractions at leisure.
Tip 11
If you are coming from the United States, your auto insurance would not be valid in Mexico. I recommend getting Mexican car insurance before crossing the border.
You have the option to get insurance at one of the businesses located close to the border. If you are in the San Diego area, these businesses are located in the town of San Ysidro. I have check rates on the Internet and what you paid near the border is competitive. You will need your driver’s license and auto registration.
Or, get your paperwork ready online. You will receive instructions on what to do in the case of an accident. Most companies require a call to the insurance office from a Mexican line.
Tip 12
The easiest way to reach Ensenada from the International Border is by using the toll highway (Mexico 1-D). Get prepared to pay $4 – $6 to between Tijuana and Ensenada (dollars and pesos are accepted).
The toll road counts with emergency boxes and a patrol offering free emergency assistance (Green Angels).
Tip 13
From the International Border, it is very straightforward to get on the toll road. Follow the “Ensenada (Cuota)” signs. You will see signs pointing to the “Ensenada (Libre)” road. These signs would take you to the free transpeninsular road (but you want to use the toll road).
Tip 14
Avoid driving at night or on unknown/remote areas. If you find yourself lost, turn back and retrace your steps.
Tip 15
Parking in Ensenada is readily available (there are public and private lots). If parking on the street, do not block entrances or leave the car on unsafe areas.
Tip 16
People arrive in Ensenada by cruise ship too. If you have a 6 – 8 hours in the city, I recommend venturing into Downtown or taking a tour offered by the ship. This will give you the opportunity to get a glimpse of what the city has to offer.
The closest international airport is located in Tijuana (2 hours away).
Money in Ensenada, Mexico
Tip 17
If you are traveling with dollars, euros or pounds, you will enjoy a very favorable exchange rate. Even if things are on your favor, get a good idea of how much you are paying on your currency.
Sometimes, people do not care about learning the exchange rate and making the conversion before buying something. They end up ripped off because they believe things in Mexico should be “cheap.”
Tip 18
On the same note, do not consume a good or participate in an activity without asking how much it costs. Again, you are asking to be ripped off.
Tip 19
The main tourist drag in Ensenada is Calle Primera (1st Street) or Calle Lopez Mateos (you will hear both names). This is the street where bars, clubs, and discos are located.
By default, everything on this street is going to be more expensive. The further you go from this street, the cheaper things will be. This applies to quality too (with a few exceptions).
Tip 20
Some businesses may try to overcharge you for certain things. Keep an eye especially on the main tourist drag. Walk around comparing prices. Some good places to shop include Bazaar Casa Ramirez, BajaNorte and Casanegra.
Tip 21
Consider spending your money on local businesses. I know you have come to Ensenada to have a good time but you can have a good time and help the local economy.
Tip 22
Dollars are accepted everywhere. Now, if you pay with dollars, you will receive the change in pesos. Once again, you need to be aware of the current exchange rate to make sure you are being given the correct amount of money. The exchange rate on the street is a bit lower than the official exchange rate.
Tip 23
It is a good idea to have some pesos at hand. I have found that I get a better exchange rate in the United States (in the change houses near the border).
Change houses on Mexico may want to charge large commissions for exchanging money. I have found big supermarkets (Walmart, Comercial Mexicana, Soriana) offer good exchange rates.
Tip 24
Another option to get pesos is to use an ATM. Be aware that banks in Mexico charge a fee to withdraw money. I have seen fees ranging from 20-90 pesos.
Tip 25
Credit cards are widely accepted in Ensenada. I try to use my no-fee credit card as much as possible (since it gives me the best exchange rate).
Using the Restroom in Ensenada
Tip 26
The cleanliness of restrooms in Ensenada varies a lot. You can run into a perfectly clean toilet or into a real nightmare when you need to go the most.
If you remember one thing from this article, remember this: bring toilet paper. I mean, I am not talking about carrying a roll around on your purse but you need to have a bit of paper (or napkins) for an emergency.
If you worry about germs, bring a small bottle of hand sanitizer too.
Tip 27
There are not a lot of public restrooms around. If you find one, you would probably have to pay a small amount to go in (like in Europe). However, you are guaranteed a clean place under these circumstances.
Tip 28
If you do not find a public restroom, you can try the old trick of going at a McDonalds or Starbucks. This is a good deal even if you have to buy something.
Tip 29
Be aware since sometimes individual stalls at malls or supermarkets do not have toilet paper. There is a big roll outside the stalls and you have to take the paper before going in.
Attractions in Ensenada, Mexico
Tip 30
A lot of people head to Calle Primera or Calle Lopez Mateos when in Ensenada. I am not the biggest fan of this place. It is fine to walk around, take a look and move on.
I encourage visitors to check the malecon (sea walk), the Mercado Negro (fish market), Los Globos (traditional market), Riviera Cultural Center, the Caracol Museum of Science and Ventana al Mar (big plaza with an interactive fountain).
Tip 31
Going to La Bufadora, a sea geyser located in Punta Banda, is a classic in Ensenada. Some people consider this overrated but the views along the drive are beautiful. You can also see La Bufadora or the peninsula cliffs from a small boat or kayak.
Punta Banda is also home of the Oceanic Aquarium.
Tip 32
And, talking about boats, you can go on a whale watching excursion from December to April from Ensenada’s port (excursions start behind the Mercado Negro).
Harbor cruises and sportfishing excursions are available year-round. In addition, you can arrange trips to Todos Santos Islands and Guadalupe Island (for cage shark diving).
Tip 33
Wine lovers rejoice since Ensenada is located less than 30 miles from the Guadalupe Valley vineyards and tasting rooms. You can take a tour or make your own arrangements. Once again, itis very straightforward to reach the road connecting the coast to the valley (from Mexico-1, you have to take Mexico-3).
The main road crossing the valley is paved but most of the streets connecting to the wineries are not. It is recommended to drive around with a high clearance vehicle.
Tip 34
South of Ensenada, you will find the Santo Tomas Valley and the San Vicente Valley. These areas provide a less-crowded, more intimate wine tasting environment.
Tip 35
Golf lovers can head to Bajamar Ocean Front Resort or Baja Country Club to play a round or two.
Tip 36
Those in search of adventure need to visit Las Canadas, a park offering campsites, cabins, ATV rentals, horseback rides, pools, pedal boats on their own lake, canopy tours and suspension bridges.
You can buy a day pass, a camping spot or a combination ticket.
Tip 37
Another ziplining opportunity can be found at Cuatro Cuatros, a complex located north of Downtown Ensenada. This activity is targeted towards couples or groups (composed of adults).
Food in Ensenada, Mexico
Tip 38
Your first stop in Ensenada should be La Guerrerense, a food cart serving seafood tostadas and cocktails. They have gained international fame since they have represented Mexico in places such as Hong Kong and have been featured in numerous TV shows (Anthony Boudain was blown away by the food).
I recommend getting their specialties such as codfish, sea urchin, sea cucumber and tuna. You will not find several combinations anywhere else. Plus, they have about a dozen salsas that you can try (try as many as possible). Do not miss this place because it is delicious!
Tip 39
For seafood cocktails and simple fish ceviche tostadas, I prefer carts like El Guero and Nuestra Senora de Novalato.
Tip 40
For shrimp and fish tacos, go to Tacos Fenix. The tacos are beyond good!
Tip 41
Other taco options include Mariscos El Gordito, Tacos Marco Antonio and Taqueria El Trailero.
Tip 42
To eat seafood in a restaurant setting, you can go to Muelle 3, La Concheria and La Cevicheria Oyster Bar.
Tip 43
The craft beer scene is thriving in Ensenada. Experience it by yourself at places like Agua Mala, Wendlandt and Doble C.
Tip 44
The best places to get dessert and pastries include Hogaza Hogaza and Cafe con Leche.
Weather in Ensenada, Mexico
Tip 45
Baja California is known for its good year-round weather. In theory, you can jump onto the road anytime. In my opinion, spring and fall are the best times to visit.
Tip 46
During daylight saving time (winter), it starts to get dark at around 5:00 p.m. You will have about 10 hours of daylight for sightseeing.
On the contrary, during summer, you will have more than 14 hours of daylight. It is important to factor this when deciding on a time to visit.
Tip 47
I recommend bringing a sweater or jacket even if you are visiting the state during summer. Temperatures can drop, especially close to the beach when the sun goes down.
Accommodations in Ensenada, Mexico
Tip 48
The city counts with many excellent accommodation options. You will find a city or beach hotel that meet your needs.
Do your own research when looking for hotels. I have stayed at places recommended by friends and they have ended up being a flub.
Tip 49
If you prefer, you can rent a small apartment using websites such as Airbnb. I have done this and have ended in places with a kitchen, washing machine, and dryer.
More of Baja California
Have you been to Ensenada, Mexico? What other tips can you provide?
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inka says
Just goes to show how dangerous prejudices are. You foud very attractive aspecst of the place, not to mention the sea food paradise. That alone makes a visit worthwhile. Did some passengers really scream when they soldiers with rifles?? Have they ever left their home before?
Courtney Mroch says
When did you go? We just did this cruise in September. I wasn’t smitten with Ensenada, but it was okay. Wish we would’ve gone see La Bufidora (sp?). Have you ever gone to see that?
Rosaura Rosario Rosario says
I went to see La Bufadora with Ruth, it is a nice place. I love it!!!
Diana says
Yes, in 1986 on a camping trip down Hwy 1. Stayed nearby La Bufadora. Then we did a dive trip out of the little bay just south of there.
jenjenk says
i actually like ensenada…i just don’t like having to drive to TJ’s to get there!
I think mexico in general has a really bad rep and it’s really for the most part, unjustified!
Michael Figueiredo says
I’ve been to Baja many times, but not to Ensenada. I think it sounds great!
Stephanie - The Travel Chica says
It is great that you had a good attitude and were willing to do your best to enjoy this town.
Debbie Beardsley @ European Travelista says
We used to visit a lovely resort at the southern end of Ensenada bay. We would drive from Northern California to spend a week with my brothers family at Estero Beach. It is a great place and a side trip to La Bufadora is great too!
Kevin says
How cool we just stayed at Monalisa Beach Hotel I mean a little outdated but great location on the beach ?
Ruth says
Hello Ash,
Thanks for stopping by and commenting.
I am sorry you felt this article is offensive. Let me try to clarify some things.
First, I started by narrating some things that I actually saw during one of my visits to Ensenada. I am not saying I personally reacted like that and decided to include it in the article to make a point later. I even wrote the part of the armed soldiers passing by in a sarcastical way (but emotions are not so easily passed on writing). I am not from the United States and have visited countries where the police operate in a similar manner. This is not a problem for me. Thus, I agree some people are better home if they are not willing to deal with the differences.
Second, Ensenada has a good side but it also has a bad side, just like any other city in the world (I don’t think a perfect city exists). Therefore, the initial remarks are not based on facts I made up. It is not my style to talk trash about the places I visit but again, I was trying to make a point.
Third, the entire point of the article is to try to get people to think different about places even though the media insist on giving them a bad reputation. Notice I wrote I elected to see Ensenda in a new light. Also, I wrote, “you should make sure your preconceptions and judgments are not stopping you from discovering what a place is all about.” Therefore, I am inviting my readers to go beyond the preconceived image and try to find the soul of a place. In the particular case of Ensenada, I think many people discard it (like the people on the cruise or many Southern California residents) and they are making a big mistake).
Fourth, I love Ensenada and visit about two times per year (you can see other posts about the city in this blog). I think it is a great destination with lots to offer. There is a big culinary movement in the area and lots of bloggers are writing weekly higlights about the region. I see a bright future for Ensenada (I mention this in the article).
Fifth, I love Mexico and I can’t wait to discover more of it.
Best wishes.
Dianne A says
Thank you for your blog. I am getting ready to take my first cruise and this is one of the places we are going. I am super excited to check it out.
Tiffany says
Hey Ruth,
This blog actually confused me at first, and I think Ash is reacting to the way it started just like I originally did. The first two paragraphs make you think that this post was agreeing with the negative perception of Ensenada and that this was going to be more of a “Tourists Beware!” article, when in fact it was the opposite.
Your blog starts with:
“….But there are others nobody wants to visit because of its bad reputation. I am talking about dirty, ungraceful and gritty cities. Places full of tacky souvenirs, harassing vendors and cheap alcohol. Add to those characteristics a dose of nearby kidnaps and murders and you end with every traveler’s worst nightmare. No soul. No culture. No nothing.
Judging for what I experienced the last time I visited Baja California, the city of Ensenada fits the description I provided in the first paragraph. Let me tell you why.”
So after reading the above I assumed you were going to list the reasons why you shouldn’t visit Ensenada. I kept reading your post and realized you were actually arguing the opposite, that Ensenada is not a bad place to visit that there are many great things about this location. You provided very nice pictures and spoke about how people need to put aside their preconceived notions and give this place a try. It was pleasantly surprising!
I am thinking of taking a cruise which has a stop in Ensenada and your blog popped up on Google more information about this place. I’m glad I didn’t skim the post or stop reading after the first paragraphs because it was a relief to read that this place is worth visiting.
Anyway, thank you for sharing about your experience!
NJSMITH says
I JUST CAME BACK FROM ENSENADA LAST WEEK. IT WAS NICE. YES, THEY SALES PEOPLE ARE VERY AGGRESSIVE BUT IF YOU IGNORE THEM, THEY’LL GO AWAY. THEIR PRICES ARE HIGHER THAN WHAT I REMEMBER THE LAST TIME I CRUISED TO ENSENADA. HONESTLY, I COULD HAVE BOUGHT EVERYTHING I NEEDED IN THE SHOP RIGHT OFF THE SHIP AND GOT BACK ON THE SHIP. THE QUALITY OF SOUVENIRS AND ITEMS IN DOWNTOWN ENSENADA IS SO HORRIBLE. I MEAN, HORRIBLE! OMG! THE WORSE! AND TOO COSTLY. JUST A BUNCH OF JUNK!
AS FOR AS THAT BLOWHOLE? OMG, I THINK SOMEONE HAD A WATERHOSE UNDERNEATH A ROCK AND JUST SPRITZ IT FROM TIME TO TIME.
NEVER AGAIN! NO MORE
Glen says
I love Ensenada, Sure there are gritty areas. I am from NYC. Gritty areas here too. Sometimes people only look for whats bad. I have fallen in love with Ensenada, its beauty, the ocean, the people and the off beaten paths. My fiancé lives here in a beautiful home on the base of a mountain. Every time I go to Ensenada, I discover something new and interesting.
Glen
Missy Whitton says
I love ensenada i jave always been treated with respect and enjoy being there with the people who live there
HUNG KHAI NGUYEND.D.S. says
WE ARE VIETNAMESE WHO HAVE BEEN LIVING MORE THAN 35YEARS IN USA.
WE HAD TRAVELING ALL MOST 5 CONTINENTS.RECENTLY VISIT ENSENADA MANY TIME,THE MORE WE COME TO ENSENADA THE MORE WE LOVE TO RETURN AGAIN AND AGAIN,WE DO NOT AGREE WITH WHAT YOU SAY ABOUT ENSENADA.WE ENCOURAGE YOU FOR A REVISIT MAYBY YOU WILL FIND THIS IS LOVELY CITY TO SPEND TIME
Cherryl says
I’ve been considering retiring in Ensenada. I currently live just outside Vancouver, BC. My daughter has cruised to Ensenada and when I told her I was considering places to retire she suggested it. I’ve been doing some research, and the reviews and information I’ve found are very good. Thank you for giving me another perspective to consider.
Sandi says
I’m thinking about moving to Ensanada, any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated. I can live cheaper there than in the US. Besides who wants to live under trumps rule, he’s a communist.
Steve says
Please go and don’t come back
Mike M says
Boy everyone read her article wrong. She was merely stating what others said. She seemed to really enjoy the place. Does anyone have reading comprehension. I know people living there and they love it and they swear by the food if your a foodie this is a place to visit for sure. Never been here but would like to stop off one day
Carolina navarro says
I made the decision to move to ensenada…in the time it took to sell my condo in VT the murder rate tripled…how can u just gloss over that? Yup, i know alot of cheapos who will put their life on the line to save a dime but im not one of them and neither is my mexican bf!
Photo Cache says
Never considered Baja as a vacation spot. I’ve been there twice and just been to the tourist areas. Any good beaches there? I suppose next time I’ll look into it. Thanks for the tip.
Ken Ventrella says
We are from Phoenix Az.,and are visiting Punta Banda in December.Isit wise and safe to cross the border at Tecate and drive thru the wine country.Or is it smarter to drive to San Diego and cross border that route?
travel hacks says
The balance you strike between exploring tourist spots and off-the-beaten-path locations is perfect. I always get a holistic view of a place through your posts.
Aundrea Blessett says
I thought I would leave my first comment. I don’t know what to say except that I have enjoyed reading. Nice blog. I will keep visiting.